Yangon, Myanmar

Jan 4, 2012 Yangon

What a nice start to the day. Breakfast with a view of Shwedagon Pagoda. Nice food, beautiful sunshine looking good.

After reserving our bus tickets with the overnight bus from Yangon to Mandalay through the reception (10,400 K each from 8pm to 5am) we had to Shwedagon Pagoda to see the most famous of all Stupas. And what a sight it is. By day it is easier to grasp than during the night. You can see and appreciate how gigantic and is and how much area it covers. Simultaneously it seems half of Yangon is here for their prayers, their lunch or any other activity. As we are obviously branded as foreigners we don't get around but paying 5 USD entry fee, let's just hope that the money goes in the right hands. It takes about two hours to cover most of the ground, take some pictures, chitchat with people, rest in the shade, take some more pictures. It is a sight to behold and definitely worth a visit. But see for yourself, words may not do it justice.

After Shwedagon a Taxi whisks us to Sakura Tower, the highest one in Yangon with view over most of the city. There is a rooftop bar where we chill for a bit, sneak some pictures and then continue to Yangon's City Centre.

The City Centre is located around Sule Pagoda, a gigantic Pagoda in a traffic circle just North of Mahar-boondola garden and near to City Hall. Mag is determined to find a restaurant highly recommend in the travel guide but we are unsuccessful even after asking around many, many times, so we continue walking through the center in the hunt for food. Along the way Indians keep approaching us to exchange money. After we negotiated a fantastic deal of 1000K for 1 USD (going rate is around 750), counted the money, they refuse to exchange since they are not happy with our crisp and brand new dollar bills. WTF! We followed all advise about the serial numbers, the new notes, the crispness, not folding them and then they decide not to accept them. I guess the catch is that they would like to lower the rate. Now this seems sketchy. Without exchanging we walk away. It's sad since that now means we are loosing loads of money on every exchange as this rate is definitely not available elsewhere but we are in no mood to fight with 3 Indians and 5 Burmese to accept or not accept our perfect Dollar bills.

The search for Lunch + Dinner continues, past Monks, playing kids, many stores but no restaurants to be seen. Where do they keep them hidden. In a spur we decide to hop in a Taxi to my friends parents restaurant, luckily she wrote down the address in Burmese for me back in Bangkok. And what a great decision it was. We are welcomed with open arms. Turns out Shoon has already called her Dad and told him I was coming to visit. We feel like instant VIP's. And to top it off the food is plentiful and fantastic. We get Mutton, Chicken and Fish Curry with rice and many condiments. Bean, chilli, lentils, vegetables, onions and lots of other stuff most of which I cannot name. All that is accompanied by plenty of fantastic Myanmar beer. I have to say it beats Thai's Chang, Indonesian's Bintang, Singapore's Tiger and Cambodia's Angkor beer in taste. Yumm!

Shoon's dad is a writer and poet and is invited to the Myanmar film festival today, which is being held for the first time in over fifty years and Aung Sang Suu Kyi is giving a speech there today. He proudly shows us his ticket and the many other awards he has won for his artistic skills. Udo is asking him where he can buy a Longyi, a traditional Burmese cloth that is worn by men and looks incredibly comfy. Since all stores are closed today Shoon's dad lets Udo buy a brandnew Longyi from him and shows him how to put it on right away. What a sight, it does look good. Let's see if that style will ever pick on back home.

Stuffed and happy we grab our bags from the Hotel and head to the bus terminal which is again far outside, near the airport. Taxi fare is excruciatingly expensive (6000K hotel-busterminal) which is a direct result of the horrendous gas prices and the low dollar exchange rate.

Power is out at the bus terminal and candles are lit everywhere but at least with the high price comes good service and within the seemingly thousands of bus stalls our driver brings us to the right one. I have never seen a bus terminal so confusing (ok not true- Hello Medan!, but just go with me here) and we would have taken forever to find out and on foot, ouch. The bus looks decent enough. Stocking up on snacks and off we go. Seats are regular, space is regular, not too much you know, bus seats. What really beats me is the blaring sound from the TV and music system that goes on until past 11pm. In addition the temperatures are near freezing. By now I am wearing long pants, covered with a scarf, a shirt, a sweater and a vest on top, hoodie and I am still shivering like mad. If the locals in a tropical country enter a bus with woolen hat and mittens that should make you think. One rest stop in between seems like a fairy tale wonderland, food stalls full with decorations of mermaids and the like. Kitsch alarm! The Yangon-Mandalay highway is really good. Barely any bumps and we are going at some decent speed. Impressed once again. Trying to get some much needed sleep but not getting my hopes up, shiver, shiver.