Jan 3, 2012 – Yangon,
Myanmar
Burma, elusive country at
the edge of South East Asia. This was the one trip I was looking
forward to most and dreading most at the same time. Why is that so,
well not that many people have been to Burma/Myanmar, it's been
closed off for decades and only recently reopened. Information is few
and sketchy. But no matter where you get your information, one thing
they all had in common, they loved Myanmar and everyone would love to
return one day. So an approval rating of pretty much 100% makes it
worth traveling, although it may be tougher than some other places.
First thing to sort out was the Visa, which was so much easier than
expected, same day at Myanmar Embassy in Bangkok. Flights, no
problem. Trip research proved more difficult. Only bring Dollars,
make sure they are in absolute crisp condition, make sure they are
the newer print, avoid certain serial numbers, exchanged them on the
black market for good exchange rates. Boyaaah! Information overload.
So I got plenty of crisp, perfect, unmarked dollar bills from the
right year (I hope), and the right serial number. It wasn't all too
easy to get them in Bangkok since not many banks have perfect dollar
bills in stock and it took me two days and about six banks to get the
right amount and I lost a fortune in ATM fees, foreign exchange fees
and foreign exchange fees again. Better not think about it. The
hidden cost of travel comes and bites you in the ass. I just know why
I check certain statements infrequently. Every time I see all the
foreign exchange fees, ATM fees and all the other fees I could just
cry. How could these banks go bankrupt if they steal my money so
openly? Ok, enough of that. So Visa, Flight tickets, Travel
companions in hand it's finally off to Myanmar.
The flight doesn't leave
until 4pm so in the morning bid farewell to my overnight guest,
fellow Kufsteiner Angi, finish packing, head to Anita's birthday
lunch, check out of my residence and there it is, finally. Smooth
sailing from Bangkok to Yangon, another new stamp in the passport and
there it is. Myanmar, the Golden Land. The Airport is truly
impressive. One of the most modern ones I have seen in South East
Asia not too big, but big enough for this city of 5 million. Looking
at all the modern signs and amenities (and yes, clean bathrooms) you
could be anywhere in the Western world.
Once you step outside of
customs there they are, the touts, trying to sell Taxis and offer
other services. With one exception, they are really friendly and
speak English. Second time Myanmar has impressed me within a matter
of minutes. I instantly feel more welcome than in many other
countries.
Men are all wearing
Sarong-like 'skirts' - Longyi as it's called, it's traditional and everyday clothing and it does
look very comfortable. Many women are also semi-traditionally clothed
with Sarong and T-Shirt.
So after we discover that
the 10 USD taxi fare to the city center is non-negotiable, or so it
seems, we head of to the Clover Hotel that Udo prebooked for one
night. Our Taxi driver speaks very good English, is uber-friendly and
explains many useful things along the way, travel tips included.
The main roads we use are
in extremely good shape. The cars in general are not. We pass by
buses and pick-ups where people hang out the doors windows and
occasionally roofs. Transport is not full until it's full. The houses
by the road look modern, there's malls and street vendors. Very much
like Bangkok, just more organized. I am not 100% certain what I
expected but it was definitely more dirt and chaos. The Hotel is
mid-range and the welcome is sweet. Welcome cocktail, nice
explanations and breakfast in the morning, lovely room and attentive
service. The Extra-Bed is set up within a matter of seconds, in all
my years in hotels I have not seen Housekeeping work so swift,
efficient and clean at the same time, and all that with a friendly
smile and the eagerness for conversation and assistance without the
expectancy of tips. Wow, some neighboring countries should import
that service attitude.
Since Udo is a bit sleep
deprived Mag and I had out for a little walk in the evening. Since we
are a while from the city center but closer to the famous Shwedagon
Pagoda we head there to take some pictures at night. I am not sure
whether we take the right turns but it leads us there and I guess the
wrong turn we took was so much better since we walk right through a
busy market where they sell everything from food to toys. Heading to
the Pagoda it seems there is something like a night fair going on.
Shooting cans or really shooting stuff, getting face painted,
throwing hoops, and there is a big stage awaiting some singers. Full
action with many people. Most women are wearing some gold paint and I
wonder if it's for a special occasion or just in general that they
wear it. Monks everywhere and people seem to have a ball of a time.
Some look at us with curiosity, most just smile friendly.
While climbing the
hundreds of steps to the Pagoda a Burmese strikes up a conversation
with us, and as it would happen another few times throughout the
night, the Burmese love the Chinese and they are exceptionally
friendly to Mag. Many know a few words in Mandarin and like to
impress her. Let's see how many Chinese tourists we'll see over the
coming weeks.
Up and up and up we go,
barefoot stair climbing. We wonder around the Pagoda a bit, take some
pictures until we are being asked to present our tickets. Since we
are planning to come back tomorrow we are not buying any for tonight
and walk down another way.
By now Mag is starving. I
received the address of a Restaurant one studymates' parents own in
Yangon. Apparently it's not too far and it would be sooo nice to go
there and try local specialties. After asking around though everyone
tells us that it is too far to walk and since we don't have local
money – Myanmar Kyats (pronounced Tschad) yet, a Taxi is not an
option. The restaurant around the corner accepts Dollars so that's
where we settle for the evening. The food seemed like a Thai/Chinese
mixture so I am waiting for something more original to rave (or not)
about.
The walk back should be
10-15 minutes but one of the many people we have asked must have send
us in the wrong direction. We circle the Lake instead of walking just
by it to our Hotel and after 50 minutes of walking and someone
telling us it's another half hour we do settle for a taxi. Thanks to
the Kyat change of the restaurant. You wouldn't believe it but
January 3rd, 10 pm and it's freakishly hot, much hotter
than in Bangkok right at this time. And I brought
sweaters....hmmm....
So what's the first
impressions of Myanmar:
-Yangon is far more
developed than anticipated
-Friendliness is
outstanding
-People are wearing their
traditional clothes with pride
-English knowledge is
widespread, way better than in Thailand
-Exchange rates Kyat to
Dollar dropped considerably since the latest publishing of the Lonely
Planet (then 1050K to 1$, now 750K to 1$)
-Considering above, prices
are far from cheap
-Airline travel is
regulated hence the pricing is always the same and enormously high
(70-100 USD one way for domestic flights)
-Burmese are very chatty
and can't wait to strike up a conversation
That's a bit of the
positive and negative that I gathered within the first 6 hours here.
There's gonna be much more to come and I can't wait!
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