Mittwoch, 18. Januar 2012

The Golden Land, Myanmar / Burma - first impressions


Jan 3, 2012 – Yangon, Myanmar

Burma, elusive country at the edge of South East Asia. This was the one trip I was looking forward to most and dreading most at the same time. Why is that so, well not that many people have been to Burma/Myanmar, it's been closed off for decades and only recently reopened. Information is few and sketchy. But no matter where you get your information, one thing they all had in common, they loved Myanmar and everyone would love to return one day. So an approval rating of pretty much 100% makes it worth traveling, although it may be tougher than some other places. First thing to sort out was the Visa, which was so much easier than expected, same day at Myanmar Embassy in Bangkok. Flights, no problem. Trip research proved more difficult. Only bring Dollars, make sure they are in absolute crisp condition, make sure they are the newer print, avoid certain serial numbers, exchanged them on the black market for good exchange rates. Boyaaah! Information overload. So I got plenty of crisp, perfect, unmarked dollar bills from the right year (I hope), and the right serial number. It wasn't all too easy to get them in Bangkok since not many banks have perfect dollar bills in stock and it took me two days and about six banks to get the right amount and I lost a fortune in ATM fees, foreign exchange fees and foreign exchange fees again. Better not think about it. The hidden cost of travel comes and bites you in the ass. I just know why I check certain statements infrequently. Every time I see all the foreign exchange fees, ATM fees and all the other fees I could just cry. How could these banks go bankrupt if they steal my money so openly? Ok, enough of that. So Visa, Flight tickets, Travel companions in hand it's finally off to Myanmar.
The flight doesn't leave until 4pm so in the morning bid farewell to my overnight guest, fellow Kufsteiner Angi, finish packing, head to Anita's birthday lunch, check out of my residence and there it is, finally. Smooth sailing from Bangkok to Yangon, another new stamp in the passport and there it is. Myanmar, the Golden Land. The Airport is truly impressive. One of the most modern ones I have seen in South East Asia not too big, but big enough for this city of 5 million. Looking at all the modern signs and amenities (and yes, clean bathrooms) you could be anywhere in the Western world.



Once you step outside of customs there they are, the touts, trying to sell Taxis and offer other services. With one exception, they are really friendly and speak English. Second time Myanmar has impressed me within a matter of minutes. I instantly feel more welcome than in many other countries.
Men are all wearing Sarong-like 'skirts' - Longyi as it's called, it's traditional and everyday clothing and it does look very comfortable. Many women are also semi-traditionally clothed with Sarong and T-Shirt. 
So after we discover that the 10 USD taxi fare to the city center is non-negotiable, or so it seems, we head of to the Clover Hotel that Udo prebooked for one night. Our Taxi driver speaks very good English, is uber-friendly and explains many useful things along the way, travel tips included.
The main roads we use are in extremely good shape. The cars in general are not. We pass by buses and pick-ups where people hang out the doors windows and occasionally roofs. Transport is not full until it's full. The houses by the road look modern, there's malls and street vendors. Very much like Bangkok, just more organized. I am not 100% certain what I expected but it was definitely more dirt and chaos. The Hotel is mid-range and the welcome is sweet. Welcome cocktail, nice explanations and breakfast in the morning, lovely room and attentive service. The Extra-Bed is set up within a matter of seconds, in all my years in hotels I have not seen Housekeeping work so swift, efficient and clean at the same time, and all that with a friendly smile and the eagerness for conversation and assistance without the expectancy of tips. Wow, some neighboring countries should import that service attitude.

Since Udo is a bit sleep deprived Mag and I had out for a little walk in the evening. Since we are a while from the city center but closer to the famous Shwedagon Pagoda we head there to take some pictures at night. I am not sure whether we take the right turns but it leads us there and I guess the wrong turn we took was so much better since we walk right through a busy market where they sell everything from food to toys. Heading to the Pagoda it seems there is something like a night fair going on. Shooting cans or really shooting stuff, getting face painted, throwing hoops, and there is a big stage awaiting some singers. Full action with many people. Most women are wearing some gold paint and I wonder if it's for a special occasion or just in general that they wear it. Monks everywhere and people seem to have a ball of a time. Some look at us with curiosity, most just smile friendly.






While climbing the hundreds of steps to the Pagoda a Burmese strikes up a conversation with us, and as it would happen another few times throughout the night, the Burmese love the Chinese and they are exceptionally friendly to Mag. Many know a few words in Mandarin and like to impress her. Let's see how many Chinese tourists we'll see over the coming weeks.
Up and up and up we go, barefoot stair climbing. We wonder around the Pagoda a bit, take some pictures until we are being asked to present our tickets. Since we are planning to come back tomorrow we are not buying any for tonight and walk down another way.






By now Mag is starving. I received the address of a Restaurant one studymates' parents own in Yangon. Apparently it's not too far and it would be sooo nice to go there and try local specialties. After asking around though everyone tells us that it is too far to walk and since we don't have local money – Myanmar Kyats (pronounced Tschad) yet, a Taxi is not an option. The restaurant around the corner accepts Dollars so that's where we settle for the evening. The food seemed like a Thai/Chinese mixture so I am waiting for something more original to rave (or not) about.



The walk back should be 10-15 minutes but one of the many people we have asked must have send us in the wrong direction. We circle the Lake instead of walking just by it to our Hotel and after 50 minutes of walking and someone telling us it's another half hour we do settle for a taxi. Thanks to the Kyat change of the restaurant. You wouldn't believe it but January 3rd, 10 pm and it's freakishly hot, much hotter than in Bangkok right at this time. And I brought sweaters....hmmm....
So what's the first impressions of Myanmar:
-Yangon is far more developed than anticipated
-Friendliness is outstanding
-People are wearing their traditional clothes with pride
-English knowledge is widespread, way better than in Thailand
-Exchange rates Kyat to Dollar dropped considerably since the latest publishing of the Lonely Planet (then 1050K to 1$, now 750K to 1$)
-Considering above, prices are far from cheap
-Airline travel is regulated hence the pricing is always the same and enormously high (70-100 USD one way for domestic flights)
-Burmese are very chatty and can't wait to strike up a conversation
That's a bit of the positive and negative that I gathered within the first 6 hours here. There's gonna be much more to come and I can't wait!  


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