Mandalay, Myanmar

Jan 5 Mandalay

Here we are in Mandalay, Myanmar. I have heard that name many times, in songs, folk tales, poems but put on the spot I can't name any of them right now. Whatever Mandalay rings a bell and now I am here. Only problem, it's 5 o'clock in the morning, it is kinda cold, pitch dark and once again the bus station is a while outside the city center. The freezing temperatures, blaring sound and little space didn't let any of us sleep so we are tired and exhausted. I was actually hoping the bus would take closer to 12 hours, as the Lonely Planet says so we would have been here at 8am, daylight, nice and easy but at 5am what other option do we have instead of climbing onto a pickup van, sitting on a straw mat on the floor there and tell them the address of one Guesthouse out of the Lonely Planet. Once again the Taxi is 'overpriced' we should just get used to that being normal for now. Negotiating is possible but doesn't amount to much of a discount.

We are not the first ones at this ungodly hour that arrive at the Guesthouse. Three others are waiting for a room and we are lucky that we can get a triple room that will be ready in a few hours, way before check-in time. While we dose off on the couches in the common area we get to check in just past 8am. Very nice of them indeed. Since Mag and Udo wanna catch up and sleep through the whole day it does need some convincing on my part to get them out of bed at noon to start the day. After all it does get dark before 6, so there's no more discovering to be done then. With tips from the Reception at Royal Guesthouse we set out to a local Teahouse for some lunch to try some local cuisine of Shan noodles (delicious) and Mohinga (some sort of noodle soup and fish – not so great) After unsuccessfully trying to find transport to the Palace's East Gate, which is the only one open to foreigners, we get smooth talked into hiring a Taxi for the day (18k K)to drive us to the main sights of Mandalay. Considering it later, it was a good option as the walking distances are multiple of what they appear to be and we would have never covered all what we got to see this way.

At the Palace there is a 10 USD entrance fee (or 9000K) which covers this and many other sites in and around Mandalay, so here's to hoping it will pay off eventually. In Myanmar they register you everywhere, you need to show your passport when checking in to the hotel, the guesthouse, even for the bus tickets they registered passport and visa number and here again when we bought the entrance ticket. I assume this is so that the government knows where we are at all times. Comforting to know that I have nothing to hide. The men with machine guns standing around would appear frightening but they smile friendly and break out in laughter when the stone hill we are trying to take pictures from crumbles underneath. So even the armored guards are friendly in Myanmar.

The Palace grounds are vast but most of it is closed off to foreigners. We are only allowed to enter and exit on one road and only allowed to take pictures inside the main Palace area. Why, I wonder. Driving in there is some poor housing but also some luxurious dwellings behind more barb wire and armed guards. In itself the buildings are unimpressive but altogether they make for a nice sight, funny backdrop for pictures and some chats with locals, even monks. The monks here are much more open than the ones you meet (or more accurately don't meet but just see) in Thailand. They love to strike up a conversation and even talk to women. They are open to be photographed and seem to enjoy it at that. More than one actually asked to take pictures with us not only us of them. One local lady speaks some German and better English and she is showing headmasters of Monk schools around Mandalay today. We just took pictures with 'famous' monks. Cool! The Watchtower is a great destination inside the Palace as well, the views are wonderful. Around and around and around green and Palace grounds. It is gigantic.

Not too far away (driving distance at least) is the Golden Palace Monastery. Our Palace ticket is valid here too. Very different, much smaller but on some levels more impressing. Made entirely of Teak wood with beautiful intricate carvings. Seems all the tour buses stopped here today as it is full with tourists, mostly Russian, German and French from what I can hear. Mandalay is where Marionettes are made and Mag strikes a deal in front of the Monastery of a beautifully carved horse and elephant. Someone back home will be happy about these gifts.

Sanda Muni Pagoda shows giant marble slabs with inscriptions and commentaries of Buddha's teachings. 1774 in total, each housed in its one white Zedi since 1913. Equally impressive. I just love all the white spires with golden tops. If they'd be green it would be 1774 Christmas tree tops right here. Cheesy I know, but tis still the season ;-) Oh, and if you are not convinced yet whether you should visit Sanda Muni, it's free.

Mandalay Hill is, as the name says a Hill in the middle of Mandalay offering great views over the city and the surroundings and since our transport was so efficient we make it there with time to spare for sunset. The weather is great for distant views. Up North are plains and fields while South you can see all of Mandalay spread out. We had some fun playing with the giant ball of fire but see for yourself.

We won't know our future anytime soon since the Astrologer Mag wanted to consult didn't speak enough English to make it worth our while. But our Taxi driver for the day surprised us with his helpfulness. Since his quote for a day-trip tomorrow to the three ancient cities surrounding Mandalay was too much for us (35,000K) he suggested a friend that had one of the infamous Blue Taxis and would go for cheaper (22,000K). So that sorted out as well. Daytrip tomorrow!

Typical Burmese dinner again, but as Mag can confirm, the Northern Myanmar cuisine is almost identical to some Chinese fare. Well as long as it is good no complaining. Snacking on some smoked Tamarind in the meantime. Delish! 

Browsing through the on-the-road nightmarket on the way home, Udo scores sunglasses and Mag and myself fit ourselves out with a female Longyi. Let's see if we ever wear them after tonight, at least on the way home we get a lot of looks (and laughter) from the locals. Aung Sang Suu Kyi's pictures are displayed openly on the market and for sale, what I heard this would have been impossible just a few months ago. How quickly things can change. All for the better I hope and let's keep the fingers crossed it stays that way. Making a few fast friends on the way, it's so easy here. Myanmar has caught on to us real fast. >3