Mandalay, Myanmar

Jan 5 Mandalay

Here we are in Mandalay, Myanmar. I have heard that name many times, in songs, folk tales, poems but put on the spot I can't name any of them right now. Whatever Mandalay rings a bell and now I am here. Only problem, it's 5 o'clock in the morning, it is kinda cold, pitch dark and once again the bus station is a while outside the city center. The freezing temperatures, blaring sound and little space didn't let any of us sleep so we are tired and exhausted. I was actually hoping the bus would take closer to 12 hours, as the Lonely Planet says so we would have been here at 8am, daylight, nice and easy but at 5am what other option do we have instead of climbing onto a pickup van, sitting on a straw mat on the floor there and tell them the address of one Guesthouse out of the Lonely Planet. Once again the Taxi is 'overpriced' we should just get used to that being normal for now. Negotiating is possible but doesn't amount to much of a discount.

We are not the first ones at this ungodly hour that arrive at the Guesthouse. Three others are waiting for a room and we are lucky that we can get a triple room that will be ready in a few hours, way before check-in time. While we dose off on the couches in the common area we get to check in just past 8am. Very nice of them indeed. Since Mag and Udo wanna catch up and sleep through the whole day it does need some convincing on my part to get them out of bed at noon to start the day. After all it does get dark before 6, so there's no more discovering to be done then. With tips from the Reception at Royal Guesthouse we set out to a local Teahouse for some lunch to try some local cuisine of Shan noodles (delicious) and Mohinga (some sort of noodle soup and fish – not so great) After unsuccessfully trying to find transport to the Palace's East Gate, which is the only one open to foreigners, we get smooth talked into hiring a Taxi for the day (18k K)to drive us to the main sights of Mandalay. Considering it later, it was a good option as the walking distances are multiple of what they appear to be and we would have never covered all what we got to see this way.

At the Palace there is a 10 USD entrance fee (or 9000K) which covers this and many other sites in and around Mandalay, so here's to hoping it will pay off eventually. In Myanmar they register you everywhere, you need to show your passport when checking in to the hotel, the guesthouse, even for the bus tickets they registered passport and visa number and here again when we bought the entrance ticket. I assume this is so that the government knows where we are at all times. Comforting to know that I have nothing to hide. The men with machine guns standing around would appear frightening but they smile friendly and break out in laughter when the stone hill we are trying to take pictures from crumbles underneath. So even the armored guards are friendly in Myanmar.

The Palace grounds are vast but most of it is closed off to foreigners. We are only allowed to enter and exit on one road and only allowed to take pictures inside the main Palace area. Why, I wonder. Driving in there is some poor housing but also some luxurious dwellings behind more barb wire and armed guards. In itself the buildings are unimpressive but altogether they make for a nice sight, funny backdrop for pictures and some chats with locals, even monks. The monks here are much more open than the ones you meet (or more accurately don't meet but just see) in Thailand. They love to strike up a conversation and even talk to women. They are open to be photographed and seem to enjoy it at that. More than one actually asked to take pictures with us not only us of them. One local lady speaks some German and better English and she is showing headmasters of Monk schools around Mandalay today. We just took pictures with 'famous' monks. Cool! The Watchtower is a great destination inside the Palace as well, the views are wonderful. Around and around and around green and Palace grounds. It is gigantic.

Not too far away (driving distance at least) is the Golden Palace Monastery. Our Palace ticket is valid here too. Very different, much smaller but on some levels more impressing. Made entirely of Teak wood with beautiful intricate carvings. Seems all the tour buses stopped here today as it is full with tourists, mostly Russian, German and French from what I can hear. Mandalay is where Marionettes are made and Mag strikes a deal in front of the Monastery of a beautifully carved horse and elephant. Someone back home will be happy about these gifts.

Sanda Muni Pagoda shows giant marble slabs with inscriptions and commentaries of Buddha's teachings. 1774 in total, each housed in its one white Zedi since 1913. Equally impressive. I just love all the white spires with golden tops. If they'd be green it would be 1774 Christmas tree tops right here. Cheesy I know, but tis still the season ;-) Oh, and if you are not convinced yet whether you should visit Sanda Muni, it's free.

Mandalay Hill is, as the name says a Hill in the middle of Mandalay offering great views over the city and the surroundings and since our transport was so efficient we make it there with time to spare for sunset. The weather is great for distant views. Up North are plains and fields while South you can see all of Mandalay spread out. We had some fun playing with the giant ball of fire but see for yourself.

We won't know our future anytime soon since the Astrologer Mag wanted to consult didn't speak enough English to make it worth our while. But our Taxi driver for the day surprised us with his helpfulness. Since his quote for a day-trip tomorrow to the three ancient cities surrounding Mandalay was too much for us (35,000K) he suggested a friend that had one of the infamous Blue Taxis and would go for cheaper (22,000K). So that sorted out as well. Daytrip tomorrow!

Typical Burmese dinner again, but as Mag can confirm, the Northern Myanmar cuisine is almost identical to some Chinese fare. Well as long as it is good no complaining. Snacking on some smoked Tamarind in the meantime. Delish! 

Browsing through the on-the-road nightmarket on the way home, Udo scores sunglasses and Mag and myself fit ourselves out with a female Longyi. Let's see if we ever wear them after tonight, at least on the way home we get a lot of looks (and laughter) from the locals. Aung Sang Suu Kyi's pictures are displayed openly on the market and for sale, what I heard this would have been impossible just a few months ago. How quickly things can change. All for the better I hope and let's keep the fingers crossed it stays that way. Making a few fast friends on the way, it's so easy here. Myanmar has caught on to us real fast. >3

Yangon, Myanmar

Jan 4, 2012 Yangon

What a nice start to the day. Breakfast with a view of Shwedagon Pagoda. Nice food, beautiful sunshine looking good.

After reserving our bus tickets with the overnight bus from Yangon to Mandalay through the reception (10,400 K each from 8pm to 5am) we had to Shwedagon Pagoda to see the most famous of all Stupas. And what a sight it is. By day it is easier to grasp than during the night. You can see and appreciate how gigantic and is and how much area it covers. Simultaneously it seems half of Yangon is here for their prayers, their lunch or any other activity. As we are obviously branded as foreigners we don't get around but paying 5 USD entry fee, let's just hope that the money goes in the right hands. It takes about two hours to cover most of the ground, take some pictures, chitchat with people, rest in the shade, take some more pictures. It is a sight to behold and definitely worth a visit. But see for yourself, words may not do it justice.

After Shwedagon a Taxi whisks us to Sakura Tower, the highest one in Yangon with view over most of the city. There is a rooftop bar where we chill for a bit, sneak some pictures and then continue to Yangon's City Centre.

The City Centre is located around Sule Pagoda, a gigantic Pagoda in a traffic circle just North of Mahar-boondola garden and near to City Hall. Mag is determined to find a restaurant highly recommend in the travel guide but we are unsuccessful even after asking around many, many times, so we continue walking through the center in the hunt for food. Along the way Indians keep approaching us to exchange money. After we negotiated a fantastic deal of 1000K for 1 USD (going rate is around 750), counted the money, they refuse to exchange since they are not happy with our crisp and brand new dollar bills. WTF! We followed all advise about the serial numbers, the new notes, the crispness, not folding them and then they decide not to accept them. I guess the catch is that they would like to lower the rate. Now this seems sketchy. Without exchanging we walk away. It's sad since that now means we are loosing loads of money on every exchange as this rate is definitely not available elsewhere but we are in no mood to fight with 3 Indians and 5 Burmese to accept or not accept our perfect Dollar bills.

The search for Lunch + Dinner continues, past Monks, playing kids, many stores but no restaurants to be seen. Where do they keep them hidden. In a spur we decide to hop in a Taxi to my friends parents restaurant, luckily she wrote down the address in Burmese for me back in Bangkok. And what a great decision it was. We are welcomed with open arms. Turns out Shoon has already called her Dad and told him I was coming to visit. We feel like instant VIP's. And to top it off the food is plentiful and fantastic. We get Mutton, Chicken and Fish Curry with rice and many condiments. Bean, chilli, lentils, vegetables, onions and lots of other stuff most of which I cannot name. All that is accompanied by plenty of fantastic Myanmar beer. I have to say it beats Thai's Chang, Indonesian's Bintang, Singapore's Tiger and Cambodia's Angkor beer in taste. Yumm!

Shoon's dad is a writer and poet and is invited to the Myanmar film festival today, which is being held for the first time in over fifty years and Aung Sang Suu Kyi is giving a speech there today. He proudly shows us his ticket and the many other awards he has won for his artistic skills. Udo is asking him where he can buy a Longyi, a traditional Burmese cloth that is worn by men and looks incredibly comfy. Since all stores are closed today Shoon's dad lets Udo buy a brandnew Longyi from him and shows him how to put it on right away. What a sight, it does look good. Let's see if that style will ever pick on back home.

Stuffed and happy we grab our bags from the Hotel and head to the bus terminal which is again far outside, near the airport. Taxi fare is excruciatingly expensive (6000K hotel-busterminal) which is a direct result of the horrendous gas prices and the low dollar exchange rate.

Power is out at the bus terminal and candles are lit everywhere but at least with the high price comes good service and within the seemingly thousands of bus stalls our driver brings us to the right one. I have never seen a bus terminal so confusing (ok not true- Hello Medan!, but just go with me here) and we would have taken forever to find out and on foot, ouch. The bus looks decent enough. Stocking up on snacks and off we go. Seats are regular, space is regular, not too much you know, bus seats. What really beats me is the blaring sound from the TV and music system that goes on until past 11pm. In addition the temperatures are near freezing. By now I am wearing long pants, covered with a scarf, a shirt, a sweater and a vest on top, hoodie and I am still shivering like mad. If the locals in a tropical country enter a bus with woolen hat and mittens that should make you think. One rest stop in between seems like a fairy tale wonderland, food stalls full with decorations of mermaids and the like. Kitsch alarm! The Yangon-Mandalay highway is really good. Barely any bumps and we are going at some decent speed. Impressed once again. Trying to get some much needed sleep but not getting my hopes up, shiver, shiver.