Magical Bagan

Jan 9 & 10 Bagan

We are all more alive than dead so that's a very good sign for the day. Being weak there's no bicycle trip today but horsecart around Bagan. The driver we spoke to yesterday is busy so he sends his cousin who patiently waits for us while we pack and helps us move to the other accommodation, May Kha Lar guesthouse. With 10 USD per person not cheap but more reasonable than Thante Hotel and the welcome is more friendly.

The horse is not in the mood to continue so we hang around and wait till he changes it to an even more healthy looking one. All doubt is gone when the Guesthouse 'Mama' also tells us that it is encouraged for tourists to take horsecarts, that way the horses are being better fed and cared for. Maybe she just said what I wanted to hear, but it works.

My hopes of taking a Hot Air Balloon ride over Bagan – I have seen pictures that took my breath away – are dashed when I hear the price, 290 USD. WTF! No discount! No balloon ride for me. I expected it to be expensive, but not outrageous. Not included in my travel budget for a one hour ride. Maybe, maybe one day I can come back and do it. The pictures keep taunting me throughout the stay, on walls, postcards. You never know.

We chose the path less traveled today. Apparently the other direction is easier covered on bicycle, which we plan on renting tomorrow. So ClickClackClickClack we trot along a maze of roads from one temple to the other. Monasteries, Temples, Pagodas, Stupas, there's plenty of everything to be discovered here. Everyone we visit has it's one charm but my favorites are always the ones where you can climb up over a lone somewhat hidden staircase and enjoy the views. The views are what's so spectacular about Bagan. I mean, every place here has some temples and pagodas but how many places have THOUSANDS?!?!

The temples that are so out of way they call the key guard to come when they see you heading towards it are also amazing. You can check out the wall paintings and so on all by yourself. You don't need to share that moment with anyone else – except maybe a seller that followed you there.

The bigger the temple the more aggressive the salespeople it feels. I bought myself a bracelet at one of the first temples and negotiated hard (or so I feel) and Udo already bought lots of stuff. Not after spending 20 to 45 minutes at every temple having people explain the meaning of hundreds of different sand paintings to him: He kind of lost me there. I find them fascinating for 2 minutes tops. 

I also uncover some scams that originally I almost fell for:

1. No 1.: Can I have your watch? Can I exchange your watch for something. We live in Myanmar, we can't buy watches here. My daughter (substitute with any other relative) needs one for school. Please can I exchange your watch for something. That happened quite often since I keep my watch outside on my bag, to be able to check the time quickly. Since I was not willing to exchange my Expo watch (still love Haibao) for some cheap souvenir I resulted in hiding it in the bag. But would it have been another watch, I might have been persuaded. After all what do I know maybe they really can't get watches easily in Myanmar, with all the stories you hear. Only to find out later, everyone can buy a watch really cheap at local markets and if you prefer a fancy one go to Mandalay or Yangon. There's plenty there. So here's Kudos to not falling prey to the Watch scam. (If you really feel like bartering bring a $ 2 watch or so from somewhere else and see if you can get something nice for it. If it looks more expensive maybe you get lucky.
2. No 2.: Do you have lipstick? Do you have perfume? (substitute with any western item here) We've been asked for everything from make-up (mascara is in high demand) to pens, pencils, western candy, someone even wanted Mag's nail clipper. They are willing to exchange for cheap souvenirs or otherwise just happy to receive it. They will generally tell you that they cannot get it in Myanmar and would love to have some Western things to use and show off. Once again I was convinced that those poor ladies cannot get a lipstick in their country and was ready to give them mine if they would have exchanged it against something nicer (it was a brand name after all). And once again later I found out that they just have unassuming tourists give them gifts as they feel bad and later on sell it on the market. And yes, there are small stores that sell make-up, lipstick and all other things they asked for.
3. No 3.: Where are you from? Do you have any Thai Baht, Australian Dollars (being from Austria of course I got asked that all the time), Euros, Yen, Yuan or any other currency on you. I would love to see how the money from your country looks like. So you feel proud that they are interested in your money, your culture and many people end up giving them coins or small bills thinking they would keep them as souvenir, but.... in the next temple you get asked the exact same where are you from question again and this time they would like to exchange the money that someone used to 'pay' them with (since they apparently didn't have local money, yeah right) for local Kyats. If you would be so kind to take the money they cannot use of their hands and give them local money for it. In the beginning I totally did fall for it. Only the lack of carrying anything but Kyat and USD hindered me from giving them some petty amount in another currency. Really smart I have to say. It only amounts to small change here and there but it makes a difference. I saw plenty of 20 Baht bills (roughly 500 K), Australian Dollar coins (yep, show them to the Austrian girl again), 5 Euro notes (loads of money here) and many others. It seems to work. So don't say you haven't been warned!
4. No 4.: It's not really a scam but people, especially kids, will follow you around, show you hidden corners and ways to climb the temples and then ask for tips in return. If they follow you make it clear from the beginning that you do not want to buy anything from them or tip them (if that is the case) so there will be no disappointment later. They were usually not insistent but I also don't think it's fair to mislead them.
5. No. 5: Sellers everywhere! Just watch out. The second you bought something the person next to him/her will offer you the same item for less. *grrrr * Only stop negotiating if they stop following you around. Then you have the right price.
6. No 6.: Lucky first sell of the day. This one I fell for more than once (or maybe it was true). Being indoctrinated into Buddhist beliefs for months since in Asia I know how important the first sell of the day is. It does in their belief make all the difference for the remainder of the day, will they be successful or not. So everyone is very keen on selling something to the first customer that approaches them as the first sell means either big business or big failure for the rest of the day. Many will tell you it's the days first sell and they are willing to give it for the lowest price ever, even considering losses just to make that first sell. Thinking you get a great deal and help them to their luck I bought things I might otherwise not have bought. Some were incredible deals I really wasn't able to get anywhere else, others were just regular prices and they just appealed to my good (Buddhist) conscience. Just use your common sense. I mean how likely is it in Peak Season that someone is making their first sell only at 2pm at a busy temple?
7. No 7.: I can't remember any more but I am sure they will get more inventive the more tourists come. Feel free to comment any new ones you encounter ;-)

This is the first (and last) time in Myanmar (except the black market money changers of course) that I run into any sort of such scams. And it is sad to see that. That Myanmar with all its beauty and honest, friendly, open and good people takes the course of its neighbors and starts scamming tourists. If this continues it's only downhill from here. Get there before it's too late and the friendly Burmese in the tourist areas turn into greedy Thais that have $$$ signs replace their pupils whenever they see white tourists.

But of course there's also the other side of the coin. The extremely helpful ones that come running with the key when they see you approaching a temple that's not always open. The ones that show you the hidden staircases to climb up for a panoramic view of the plains, the ones that run for the key-keeper who hurries here on the motorcycle. The ones that take the time to explain you the meanings of all the Buddhas (although you made it clear beforehand that you are not interested in buying from them), the ones that simply smile at you. The kids that run up to you smiling. This makes it all worthwhile again.

After visiting a few more temples we stop in a tiny village to refuel (water, juice and beer) and a village girl offers to show us around. Local houses, cigar rolling, peanut oil in the making, hand weaving and all sorts of business is going on and we get a first hand explanation of it all. We can even walk through her family's house and meet everyone from great-granny to baby.

Peanuts are being grind with just a little water added to get peanut oil and how it's done. With a strong ox and wooden machinery. And who would think, such a luxury life, the ox just does this for 45 minutes and is then replaced with a 'fresh' one to keep it moving at the right speed. Aaaaah, in the village they still care for their animals. We all get a go riding on the peanut grinder and helping out the oil-makers. Great fun! And the people find it hilarious. Apparently I am very good at this (how can you mess up scooping peanuts back into a bowl) and they would hire me on the spot. Hmmmm.... thanks but no thanks. Udo gets his Tanaka on again and we get to try greatgrannys homemade cigarette. Phew! I don't think this would be legalized back home. Strooooong. Few more turns in the village (and some tips for our guide) and off we go to … you guessed it... more temples!

Ingenious bottle opener Myanmar style 

We continue that until we settle down on a higher Pagoda for sunset to enjoy the views. And it IS magical! Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! I am truly enjoying this, and am happy to share some memories.

Back in Nyang U I have the first solid food in four days and very relieved. And just to show how truly small this world is we run into a study colleague from Bangkok. Whaaaat?!?! In Myanmar of all places. Great coincidence. They are mostly doing the same route as we are with little different timing but turns out we are on the same flight back to Bangkok so will surely run into each other again. The world is a village.

The next morning we continue through Bagan, this time on bicycles. Turns out they are much faster than the horse-cart, although it is more unique to show up in a horse drawn buggy than on a shaky old bike. In Nyang U there is the famous Shwe Zi Onzedi Pagoda, our first visit for the day. It's beautiful but after having seen so many already in Yangon and Mandalay they tend to get less impressive. It's the same phenomenon in Europe. No matter how grand the Church, after a while you've just seen too many to still be impressed.

On the bicycle you can go and stop wherever you want. From the main road there are dirt tracks in all directions leading to various temple groups. Chances are you are completely alone at most of them with barely a vendor in sight. When you are lucky the key-keeper is around and lets you climb up. The views from above are just the best. And while every Temple and Pagoda is unique after a while I just don't seem to care of the Buddhas and paintings anymore. But the view! I do not get tired of the view!

Once in Old Bagan we visit the main sight, Ananda Pagoda, and run into Ko Aung Lin. He is selling lacquer ware and other items and is immensely proud that he was mentioned in a German guidebook. Ko Aung Lin is very friendly and talkative and gifts Mag, Udo and me each a bracelet without asking anything in return. He even guides as to a lunch spot and tells us some stories. To top it all of he invites us over for dinner to his house but unfortunately we are unable to accept since we are already leaving Bagan the next morning. That would definitely have been a grand experience. The friendliness and hospitality is genuine.

Does he really look 14 do you? 

Udo being the center of attention for handing local Tamarind Candy to the Kids 

Sunset is spent on the top spot for it in Bagan Shwen Sa Daw Pagoda. Since everyone considers it the top spot for sunset it is packed with people. The first time I see so many tourists in Myanmar. I think most tourists in the Bagan area are all clustered here for the better part of an hour. It's a spectacle and the sellers are more aggressive here than elsewhere. They must be used to crowds.

What's to say about Bagan. Two days and a few hours was too short for me. I loved it. The scenery is amazing and the concept of having thousands of Pagodas and Temples at one place just makes it a magical experience. Everywhere you turn, twist your head or make a step in any direction it looks different. It will look a bit different on any future visit as well. You can still get your temple, shrine, tomb built there. It does take some money though. Apparently the getting it built is the easy part but in order to be able to built it you need a government permit which is next to impossible to get and to buy the land from the government which charges an arm and a leg for it. But if you've got it, flaunt it.

Bagan is the most touristy spot in Myanmar so far and while you have the disadvantages that come with tourism most people are still warm and genuine and you will instantly comfortable. I would come back here again any time (hopefully with enough money to spare for that balloon ride).

Magical Bagan!